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Travel

Majestic Fortresses and Potent Libations: An Unexpected Afternoon in Heidelberg

Completing my lunch and peering through Majestic Fortresses the window, the prospects didn’t appear too appealing. The river cruise ship, moored along the shore of a Rhine tributary, showcased an industrial landscape. While efficiently organized in a typically German manner, it lacked much to capture one’s interest.

Upon boarding a coach for the afternoon tour along the Autobahn, we traversed cities with unfamiliar names like Ludwigsburg and Mannheim. Passing by a sprawling chemical plant and a remarkably colossal power plant, the scenery exuded mechanization and power.

Majestic Fortresses

Suddenly, the bus entered a tunnel of trees, adorned with late autumn hues of yellow and gold, occasionally splashed with red. The road narrowed, welcoming hikers and cyclists. It transformed into a perfect autumnal scene, and to my delight, it improved further.

Turning a corner, a majestic palace unfolded before us, bathed in the afternoon sun. Once a pivotal piece of German real estate, it now stood partly in ruins, a place I had known nothing about until that moment.

River Serendipity

River cruises often lead to seemingly random destinations, dictated by the course of the ship along the river. From charming small towns to renowned cities like Vienna, Budapest, and Paris, the journey unfolds naturally.

Heidelberg was vaguely familiar to me, and I almost considered skipping the afternoon trip. Yet, that’s the allure of such journeys and travel in general. You can wake up with little excitement for the day, only to be pleasantly surprised and captivated by a place.

And that’s precisely what happened in Heidelberg. “Heidelberg is a romantic city, but not particularly old—by German standards,” explained our guide as we disembarked the coach. The city, with a population of around 160,000, boasts Germany’s oldest university, established in 1386, making it a vibrant and youthful place.

As we descended cobblestone streets toward a significant Renaissance structure, the guide shared the palace’s history, built in stages and reconstructed over the centuries. While engrossed in the guide’s tales of the Holy Roman Empire’s 1,000-year history, my attention was momentarily diverted by a Tina Turner song resonating from a banquet hall. Outside, two young women danced in perfect synchronization to Nutbush City Limits. Though their purpose remained unclear, they vanished inside, likely preparing for a performance.

As we reached a broad promenade, the city sprawled beneath us, with the guide pointing out the Neckar River dominating the sweeping valley below. We also marveled at the Great Heidelberg Tun, an immense wine vat capable of holding 58,000 gallons, constructed in 1751.

Heading into town by bus, the day was waning, and the autumnal sun descended steadily. Despite limited time, the views of the castle from the city center were breathtaking, the partially ruined structure presiding over everything from its elevated position.

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